Netsuke (根付)

▣ What exactly is a Japanese Netsuke, and what was its original purpose?

Netsuke are tiny, three-dimensional sculptures, typically made from wood or ivory, that played a crucial role in the fashion and daily life of Edo period Japan. Since traditional kimonos didn’t have pockets, men had to hang their personal belongings—like pipe tobacco, medicine, or personal seals—from a cord attached to their obi (sash).

The Netsuke acted as a counterweight to prevent these items from falling, securing the cord behind the obi. So, they were as practical as they were aesthetically valuable, essentially functional jewels.

▣ When did Netsuke originate, and when was their golden age?

Netsuke first gained popularity in Japan during the 17th century, truly hitting their stride during the Edo period (1603-1868). At that time, urbanization and a thriving merchant class led to an explosion of fashion and personal expression, turning these small objects into indispensable accessories of style and status.

▣ What materials were used to create Netsuke, and which were considered the most prized?

The range of materials was truly astonishing: from woods like boxwood and cypress to ivory (often prohibited today due to ethical sourcing concerns), horn, amber, and even tortoise shell. Ivory Netsuke and those made from exquisitely detailed wood were among the most highly valued, but each material lent a unique character to the piece.

▣ What were the most common Netsuke subjects, and did they carry any special meaning?

The subjects were endless, ranging from animals of the Japanese zodiac cycle to mythological and legendary figures, benevolent deities (like the Seven Gods of Fortune), scenes from daily life, and even humorous caricatures. Often, each figure embodied symbolism, an omen of good fortune, or a reference to a popular story.

▣ What’s the key difference between a Netsuke and an Okimono?

The core distinction lies in their function. A Netsuke was designed to be worn and featured a hole (himotoshi) for its cord, whereas an Okimono is a purely decorative sculpture, meant for display on a shelf or table. Okimono are often larger and lack the attachment system found in Netsuke.

▣ How were Netsuke attached to a kimono’s sash?

A Netsuke was fastened to the obi (kimono sash) using a cord that passed through one or two holes called ‘himotoshi.’ One end of the cord held a sagemono (like a pouch or inrō box), and the Netsuke was at the other. When placed above the obi’s upper edge, the Netsuke kept the sagemono from slipping away.

▣ Why are Netsuke considered valuable works of art and collector’s items today?

Their value comes from the exceptional craftsmanship and artistic ingenuity required to create such tiny, detailed sculptures. Each Netsuke is a microcosm of Japanese art, history, and culture, often one-of-a-kind. Their rarity and exquisite workmanship make them highly sought after by collectors worldwide.

▣ Are there modern Netsuke or replicas that continue this artisan tradition?

Yes, even though their practical function diminished as kimonos faded from daily wear, the art of Netsuke is far from dead. Many contemporary artists create Netsuke, often using traditional techniques and materials but with modern subjects and interpretations. You can also find faithful replicas and reproductions if you wish to own a piece of this captivating art.

▣ Fun Facts

• Many Netsuke, despite their small size, incorporated clever mechanisms to hide the cord, making it invisible when not in use. This showcased not only the artist’s skill but also a pursuit of elegant design.

• There are specific Netsuke types called ‘manju netsuke’ (named after a round Japanese sweet) or ‘kagami netsuke’ (mirror Netsuke), which are flat or disc-shaped, often featuring a decorated metal inlay. They represent a distinct category, less three-dimensional but equally rich in detail.

• Edmund de Waal’s book ‘The Hare with Amber Eyes’ brought Netsuke global fame, telling the true story of a Jewish family and their precious collection of Netsuke that survived war and persecution.