Hakama (袴)

▣ So, what exactly is a Hakama, and what’s it for?

An Hakama is a type of very wide, flowing pleated pant or skirt, an iconic piece of traditional Japanese attire. Originally used to protect the legs of horsemen and allow freedom of movement, over time it evolved into a ceremonial and practical garment for various disciplines. Today, you’ll often see it worn in martial arts like Kendo and Aikido, but also during traditional ceremonies and sometimes even in modern fashion.

▣ What are the historical origins of the Hakama and how has it evolved over time?

The Hakama’s roots stretch back to the Heian period (794-1185), when it was primarily worn by nobility as part of court attire. During the Sengoku period, it became crucial for samurai, who valued its practicality in battle and on horseback. With the Meiji era, its use expanded to women, especially students and teachers, becoming a symbol of emancipation and modernity.

▣ What are the distinctive design features of an Hakama?

The Hakama stands out with its wide vertical pleats, typically seven (five in front and two behind), which give it an elegant and dynamic appearance. It features a sturdy band called a ‘koshi-ita’ at the back and two pairs of ties (‘himo’) that are knotted to secure it at the waist. The generous width of the legs, almost like a skirt, allows for great freedom of movement and conceals the legs, conveying an image of dignity.

▣ Why is the Hakama so prevalent in Japanese martial arts?

In martial arts like Kendo, Aikido, Iaido, and Kyudo, the Hakama is much more than just clothing. Its wide cut conceals the position of the feet, making it harder for an opponent to anticipate movements. What’s more, its drape helps to focus energy and stabilize posture, reflecting the importance of balance and fluidity in these disciplines. Every pleat also carries philosophical meaning.

▣ Beyond its functionality, does the Hakama hold symbolic meaning?

Absolutely! The seven pleats of the Hakama are deeply symbolic, representing the seven virtues of Bushido, the samurai’s ethical code: Jin (benevolence), Gi (rectitude), Rei (courtesy), Chi (wisdom), Shin (sincerity), Chū (loyalty), and Kō (filial piety). Wearing the Hakama is a constant reminder of these values, a way to carry forward a legacy of discipline and honor.

▣ Is it always worn with a Kimono? What’s the relationship between the two?

Not always, though it is the traditional and most common pairing. The Hakama is worn *over* a kimono, often a kosode, which serves as the base layer. The kimono acts as the ‘foundation’ for the Hakama, which is then tied around the waist on top. While a kimono is a complete garment, the Hakama is a ‘lower’ garment (or ‘outer’ layer, if you think of it as an addition) that completes it, adding formality or functionality.

▣ Has the Hakama found its way into contemporary fashion?

Yes, absolutely! Designers and fashion enthusiasts have reinterpreted the Hakama, integrating it into modern outfits. While the most authentic versions are reserved for ceremonies or martial arts, you can find variants with contemporary fabrics and cuts, sometimes shortened or with minimalist designs. Its flowing, unisex style makes it versatile, adding a touch of exotic elegance and on-trend flair to urban and casual fashion.

▣ Do women wear Hakama differently from men?

Yes, there are some differences. Historically, women’s Hakama (sometimes called an ‘andon bakama’ if it doesn’t have separated legs, resembling a long skirt) was often associated with female students during the Meiji period, paired with boots and a shorter kimono. Women still wear it today for ceremonies like graduations, Kyudo practice, or other arts, and in specific contexts, often with more vibrant colors and patterns compared to the more subdued men’s versions.

▣ Fun Facts

• Until the Heian period, the Hakama didn’t feature the pleats we recognize today. They were introduced later to improve fit and freedom of movement, but also to add a distinctive aesthetic element, eventually becoming a symbol of Bushido’s virtues.

• There’s a type of Hakama called a ‘sashiko hakama’ that’s reinforced with traditional sashiko stitching, making it extremely sturdy and durable. This makes it particularly popular in martial arts like Kendo, where friction and the need for durability are high.

• Learning to tie an Hakama correctly takes practice. The two pairs of himo (ties/straps) must be fastened with specific knots, like the ‘jūmonji musubi’ (cross knot), which not only secures the garment but also carries aesthetic and symbolic value of precision and respect.